Itinerary Taste Bordeaux
Exceptional decor, traditional creators and delicious treats on every corner… Take a sweet-toothed stroll around Bordeaux, a city steeped in history.
Rooted in history
Slavery, sea adventures, the creation of plantations and trading companies, rapid fortunes and ruin, the rise of the food industry, port life… the rooms found on the first floor of the Musée d’Aquitaine teach us about Bordeaux’s links with its colonial past, including the standing that chocolate and sugar had in its economy
On Rue de la Vieille Tour, in just a few metres you come across a significant number of sweet treats. On the corner of Rue Porte Dijeaux you’ll find the most famous canelés (spelt here with just one ‘n’) at the Baillardran boutique. Next up, it’s time for some chocolate at la Maison Darricau (no. 7 bis), a centenarian family business descended from a local pâtissier who worked first at the Spanish Court then at the Russian one. Right next door (at no. 7) you have Chez Pascal’s dune blanches. Where the street turns you’ll find l’Alchimiste and their fine home-roasted coffee. Just before you reach Cours de l’Intendance, at no. 4, there is the much-hyped Hasnaâ Ferreira, an innovator in chocolate-making, working only with cocoa beans from the same line and soil in the manner of fine wine producers.
Why not take a little tea and pâtisserie break in the chic, classy part of Bordeaux? Any Teas is at the end of the 19th century glasshouse walkway on Passage Sarget, which joins Cours de l’Intendance to the splendid, baroque church of Notre-dame. Miremont (5 Rue Buffon) does not have the same view as its famous cousin in Biarritz, however it does share the same reputation.
Grand old traditional companies
Although it first appeared as Maison Vene Frères in 1825 and became the Badie confectionery store in 1903, it wasn’t until 1939 as Cadiot-Badie that chocolate became the main ingredient in the success of this store, whose interior of stuccos, wood and marble is almost unchanged since it moved to 26 Allées de Tourny in 1900. La Confiserie Bordelaise became Chocolaterie Saunion in 1893. It is still run by the same family and it is an officially recognised ‘living heritage business’ (56 Cours Georges Clemenceau).
The sugar man’s palace
As the inheritor and manager of one of the three last sugar refineries in Bordeaux, Henry Frugès enjoyed music and the arts above all. For his family, he undertook a fabulous renovation of a hôtel particulier (private mansion) in an eclectic style, calling on several artisans who combined Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. To house his workers, he commissioned Le Corbusier to create the “garden city” of Pessac. Today, both are listed historical monuments.